In early February Teo Kridech, the owner of the French/Californian restaurant Watercress, opened Bistro Annex next door as an appeal to the thin wallets yet sophisticated palettes of San Francisco diners. In a section of the Mission defined by the severe contrast between cheap eats and restaurants with valet parking, Teo envisioned more of a middle ground. He has succeeded in creating an environment that is elegant without sacrificing comfort.

Latin Jazz drowns out the hustle bustle of Valencia Street, and Sylvie, the one and only waitress, takes each order by memory. Moreover, the prices are reasonable and the portions uniformly generous. Teo accomplishes this feat of economics by keeping the menu small. With only four appetizers and six entrees from which to choose, meat eaters will be sufficiently entertained by salads, pastas, stews, and fish dishes, although vegetarians may find themselves strapped for options. -- Emma Cott