Kebab has gotten a bad (w)rap in this country. When Americans think of kebab, often misspelled as kabob, what usually comes to mind is the gyros type sandwich composed of thin strips of lamb stuffed in a pita pocket with a couple of grilled tomato slices thrown in. Hardly satisfying fare for a kebab connoisseur such as myself. The word kebab refers to the way meat is prepared, first marinated and then grilled, preferably over an open flame. In fact, in countries where kebab is a specialty, and not just an affordable alternative to McD's, there are innumerable preparations of kebab. The tastiest of these are available for sampling at Bursa Kebab, a new Turkish restaurant in West Portal. Bursa Kebab offers a more refined dining experience than your standard kebab stand. Its soft lighting and elegant yet simple décor make it a good choice for intimate dates as well as larger parties. -- Berin Golonu