The okoze fish, also known as the "devil stinger" (yum?), graces the front of the menu at this restaurant of the same name. As it's one of the least attractive fish I've ever set eyes upon, I couldn't imagine why Jason Kim, the owner of Okoze, would want the discriminating diner to associate his restaurant with this warty monstrosity. So I asked him. His response, "Because the meat tastes good." Ah! What a novel concept!

In a city overrun with sub-par sushi restaurants that claim to serve "fresh" fish in "hip" surroundings, Okoze stands out in every sense. The furnishings are contemporary Japanese décor at its best. One gets the sense in this establishment that yin is definitely in sync with yang. The restaurant is further furnished with rich, hand-sewn textile hangings. There's a beautiful simplicity at work here that carries over into the food.

- Excerpt from Okoze, The freshest of fish served up Japanese style, with flair by Heather Thompson