Combine sauteed Monterey squid, grapes, foie gras, raisins, and heirloom potatoes. Sounds strange, but when my best Brooklyn girlfriend came to town recently, we had our minds blown by this dish ($16), as well as the rest of the relatively inexpensive fare at Gerald Hirigoyen's Piperade. The somewhat-celeb chef of Fringale has reopened his Pastis as a rustic Basque bistro, servicing the same casual uppercrust crowd with a truly standout menu.

- Excerpt from SF Station review by Tracie Broom